Cora Shoemaker works within the parameters of traditional bespoke shoemaking. The making of all shoes follows the lengthy and time-consuming process of controlling every element of the craft to produce unique works of form and function. The commission of a pair of bespoke shoes begins with and requires additional in-person meetings as shoes are being made.
Process:
At the first appointment, we will take all of the necessary information, measurements, and details of the customers feet in order to make a custom, bespoke, wooden last in the workshop. We will discuss the requirements of the client and the details of the shoes which are to be made.
Once the measurements and details are confirmed, a wooden last is carved from our house made "rough turn" model in hornbeam wood. This is the crux of bespoke work and is what allows us to make a unique last that is tailored to your feet and yields something both aesthetically and functionally fitting for each client. We do not work with a preexisting shape and adapt it to fit but instead make a new model each time.
After the last is carved and shaped, a pattern for the style of shoe that has been ordered is created with the design lines being drawn directly on the last. The pattern is used to make the leather "upper" for the shoes.
At the second appointment, the client has the opportunity to see and try on a pair of "fitting shoes" made from second grade leather, fitted with a simple cork sole and heel. The temporary fitting shoes allow us to assess the fit of the shoes and to confirm that the shape of the last and design of the upper is correct.
From this point, further corrections and adjustments can be made to the lasts. Refinements are made to reduce or add volume as required for fit, and adjustments to shape, proportion, and design can be made as needed.
Depending on the first fitting appointment, the final pair of shoes can be made if only small adjustments are needed, or another pair of fitting shoes will be made in order to meet again and further assess and confirm the development of the last to the client's satisfaction. In an ideal case, only one fitting is required before being able to complete the final shoes, though it is important to note that two, or even three fittings may be required to ensure the best fit possible. This is the nature and commitment of bespoke work for both the client and the shoemaker.
Once the fit and shape of the last is finalized after one or more fitting appointments, the finished shoes can be made. The pattern is cut in its finished form, the leather uppers are sewn using the leather selected by the client, and the shoes can be lasted, welted, sewn, and finished in the workshop.
Bespoke shoe trees are ordered, and we are able to deliver your shoes in person or by mail as preferred.
All work is completed in house with the exception of the bespoke shoe trees.
Timeline:
The current timeline for bespoke commissions is approximately 12-18 months.
Pricing:
Pricing for all bespoke work is currently $3500 USD. A non-refundable deposit of half the total cost is required at the first appointment so that materials can be purchased and the work can begin. Final payment of the remaining balance is due upon delivery.